Fremont Canyon: Central Wyoming’s premier rock climbing area
Fremont Canyon is a deep granite gorge home to great rock climbing in a beautiful setting above the North Platte River. Generations of Casper climbers have cut their teeth climbing on these steep water-worn walls, giving the canyon a reputation for being a hard training ground for some of Wyoming’s strongest climbers. However, Fremont is also a great place for people wanting to just break into the sport. It’s also great for those wanting to increase their knowledge of climbing safety systems due to its wide array of top-managed toprope terrain. So whether you’re looking to toprope moderate sport climbs or try your hand at a 5.12 trad testpiece, Fremont is an amazing place to develop your skills as a climber.
Note on access: the eastern and far western portions of Fremont Canyon are on public land (Bureau of Reclamation and Bureau of Land Management). However, several popular crags in the middle and western parts of the canyon are on private land. Thus we encourage all users to research land boundaries and gain permission to recreate on private lands.
Fremont Canyon at a glance:
Mostly single pitch trad and sport climbing, with some multipitch
Beginner to advanced
Splitter cracks, crimps and edges
Spring and fall
Morning and evening
Cabins for rent and car camping
Fishing, boating, hiking
Classic climbs in the west end of Fremont Canyon:
(For which we are either permitted by the BLM or have permission to guide from landowners)
- Low Voltage (5.6, 50’) – This moderate classic is the first climb for many Casper-area locals. It features great rock and safe bolting with scenic views overlooking the North Platte River. One tricky move off the ground leads to a series of big jugs and fun mantles with great footholds the whole way. This is a great warmup for the other harder climbs at the Battery Wall. Note: a static access line is needed to reach the anchors from above for toproping.
- Diamond in the Rough (5.7, 70’) – This overlooked moderate trad climb in the Hokey Pokey area of the west canyon features moderate offwidth climbing and chimneying to fun flake and lieback moves at the top. This climb is only accessible in low water conditions and as such sees little traffic most of the year. Although it was recently cleaned, be prepared for plenty of moss, thick cobwebs, and potentially loose rocks in the chimney below the bolted anchors.
- Short Circuit (5.9, 50’) – Short Circuit ascends a stellar line of edges and slopers as you wander your way back and forth on the right side of the main Battery Wall. The route begins in a shallow crack system, cuts left on easier slabby terrain, then takes you through two thought-provoking cruxes to the chains. Many folks find this route to be a bit beta intensive and perplexing on the onsight – be sure to take advantage of the good rests and don’t be afraid to try some creative lateral movement!
- The Blade (5.10d, 95’) – This detached tower in the west end of Fremont Canyon is one of the most iconic features of the canyon and is featured on the memorial to Casper local and longtime Fremont Canyon route developer Pat Parmenter. Located several hundred yards upstream from the Battery Wall, the Blade features an easy but loose traditional route to the summit (The West Chimney, 5.4) and a brilliant mixed line of gear and bolts on the east face of the Tower. The east face route consists of a broken system of cracks down low and some really enjoyable and committing face moves on positive edges toward the top. Bring a single rack of cams (BD Camalots .3-3) and six quickdraws for the bolts.
Courses available in Fremont Canyon:
Resources for planning your trip to Fremont Canyon:
- Guidebook: Fremont Canyon and Dome Rock (available at Mountain Sports)
- Climbing gear and gym: 5150’ Rock Gym
- Outdoor clothing: Gear Up and Get Out There
- Gas and groceries: Sloanes General Store
- Camping: Fremont Canyon Campground
- Accommodations: Riverview Inn, North Platte Lodge, Sloanes
Interested in climbing in Fremont Canyon? Send us an email with your name, email address, and brief description of what you’re looking for.