Ice Climbing in the South Fork

The South Fork of the Shoshone River: Wyoming’s premier ice climbing destination

The South Fork of the Shoshone River Valley near Cody Wyoming is home to one of the largest concentrations of waterfall ice climbing in the lower 48. The demanding nature of ice climbing in the South Fork – steep and rugged approaches, stiff grades, fluctuating conditions, complicated descents, grizzly bear activity, etc. – makes this a challenging but incredibly rewarding place to climb. Our primary objective is to make ice climbing in the South Fork safer and more sustainable by teaching modern safety systems and mitigating undue risk on approaches, climbs, and descents.  As special use permittees operating in a wilderness area, it is also our responsibility to provide a model for sustainable use of this pristine natural resource.  Every established ice climb in the South Fork is in the Washakie Wilderness, so all applicable restrictions apply (including prohibitions on the use of drones and power drills).

The South Fork at a glance:

The central valley of the South Fork contains eight main subareas: Ishawooa Mesa, Deer Creek, Hawkeye Ranch, Majo Ranch, Lower Bench, Upper Bench, and the Upper Valley.  There are also several outlying areas in the lower South Fork, the most prominent of which we describe is Aldrich Creek on Carter Mountrain.  For each subarea we provide a general description in addition to a list of classic routes in that subarea.

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Ishawooa Mesa

Ishawooa Mesa is home to the greatest concentration of ice climbs of any subarea in the South Fork as well as the hardest technical pitches of waterfall ice in the valley.  Located north of the South Fork Road, Ishawooa Mesa is the large rugged mass that stretches between the Ishawooa Mesa Ranch on its northeastern end and Deer Creek on the southwest.  The mesa is proximate to the road, so approaches to many (but not all) of the mesa’s routes are among the shortest that you’ll find in Cody.  Ishawooa Mesa has a southeast facing aspect, with some climbs that are sun exposed but others that receive little sun due to the winding nature of the gullies.  Many of these drainages are deeper and longer than they appear from the road, containing thousands of feet of ice in addition to several feeder drainages that also contain ice climbs.  As a result it’s helpful to categorize routes by the drainage-complexes in which they’re located.  Conveniently, most of these drainages have walk-offs (some more rugged and difficult to navigate than others), so climbers can ascend more pitches in a day thanks to time saved by not rappelling.  The following are the main drainages containing classic routes on Ishawooa Mesa, listed in order of east to west:

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Welcome Wagon Drainage – The Welcome Wagon Drainage is home to two of the easiest access climbs in the South Fork, the namesake Welcome Wagon and Freak on a Leash, which offer fun and thoughtful climbing for their respective grades.  Both climbs tend to form only once or twice per season, usually after a period of warmer temperatures followed by cooler and cloudier weather.  This happens most reliably in late February to early March but these melt-freeze cycles can occur at other times during the winter.  Welcome Wagon (WI4-5, 40m) features an easy slab followed by two short but steep sections of three-dimensional climbing broken up by a great rest.  Freak on a Leash (M5 WI4) has some really enjoyable moderate traditional mixed climbing protected by finger to hand-sized cams, nuts, and beaks in a narrow chimney followed by a runnel of thin ice.

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Illogicicle Drainage – The Illogicicle Drainage is the deepest gully system on Ishawooa Mesa with pitch after pitch of moderate ice leading to one of the South Fork’s most unique and rare-to-form pillars, the Illogicicle (WI5-6, 35m).  Although this pillar cannot be seen from the road, the more reliable second and third pitches of Illogicicle (both WI5) are readily visible and can be accessed by skirting the first pitch pillar to the right via Hanging Tree (WI5 30m) or scrambling on broken terrain.  A number of mixed pitches have been added above the third pitch of Illogicicle as well in addition to one extremely difficult thin pillar.

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Schoolhouse Drainage – The Schoolhouse Drainage contains the greatest concentration of ice pitches of any drainage in the South Fork with a great range of moderate to hard routes.  The first three pitches of the namesake Schoolhouse Route (WI4, 6 pitches) are enjoyable moderate pitches in themselves and the best means of accessing the upper, more challenging routes.  For a long day of romping up waterfall ice, the Classroom Bully (WI5, 5 pitches) is an excellent addition to the first three pitches of Schoolhouse.  Just above that is Teacher’s Pet (WI6, 35m), a severely steep pillar that requires no less than 8 pitches of climbing to reach!  Perhaps the best pitch of trad mixed climbing in the South Fork, the Last Climb Before the War (M5 WI5-6), is located just above the third pitch of Schoolhouse.  Several other hard ice and mixed climbs are located in the feeder drainages of Schoolhouse, including Hall Pass (WI5, 2 pitches), Hot for Teacher (WI5), Sideshow Addiction (WI6), Easy A (M6 WI5), and others more recently put up by Cody locals.

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Stringer Drainage – The Stringer Drainage contains two readily accessible moderate climbs, the namesake Stringer (WI3, 3 pitches) and Desperate For Lovin’ (WI4, 3 pitches), in addition to the challenging multipitch mixed climb Twitching (M8 WI5) and one of the longest waterfall ice climbs in the valley, Slow Turning (WI5-6, 8 pitches).  Stringer is a locals’ favorite for a quick midwinter day out as the approach is only about 20 minutes and the climb reliably comes into good condition during the colder months.  It features an aesthetic narrow runnel of ice leading to rambling moderate terrain and one final steeper pitch, followed by a rappel descent.  Desperate For Lovin’ only tends to come in for shorter periods in the late winter or early spring but it is a must-do for the grade.  It has an even shorter approach than Stringer, a convenient walkoff, and thoughtful thin climbing on its first pitch, which is sometimes mixed.  Twitching and Slow Turning are two rareties for the South Fork as they have only fully come in a handful of times, but if you’re willing to hike around lower cliff bands to reach the upper pitches they both offer some exceptionally high quality hard climbing.

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Legg Creek – Legg Creek is a high volume drainage that is home to two stellar pillar climbs, Ovisight (WI5-6, 3 pitches) and Who’s Your Daddy (WI5, 3 pitches).  The approach requires a great deal of hiking between unimpressive moderate pitches but is well worth it to reach the goods above.  Ovisight is by far the best climb in the drainage with three pitches of steep, sustained, and three-dimensional ice climbing, but the first pitch crux pillar does not come in every year.  If the first pitch does not form, the first pitch of Who’s Your Daddy to the left is a good alternative means to access the upper pitches of Ovisight.  The upper pitches of Who’s Your Daddy are also worthy just not quite as long and sustained as its neighbor to the right.

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Triptych Drainage – The Triptych Drainage has a good selection of moderate climbs in its lower half followed by a concentration of very challenging climbs in its upper tiers.  All of the climbs in the drainage require at least some amount of moderate approach pitches with hiking in between.  The lowest climb in the drainage is Hostile Takeover (WI4+, 2 pitches), the first and best pitch of which is a steep vertical curtain that is reliably in good condition early and late in the season due to its shady positioning.  Spittin’ Bullets (WI4, 2 pitches), the next climb up the drainage, features some really fun thin runnel climbing and is generally good in the colder months as it is very sun exposed.  High School Squids (WI4, 2-3 pitches) is the next climb up the drainage, which includes one 70m long less than vertical slab followed by a short but steep pillar.  The Triptych Pillars route (W4-5, 6 pitches) continues up the drainage proper past several short steps, several of which can be difficult to protect, to an aesthetic amphitheater with the namesake three pillars.  The rightmost pillar is the most moderate but often the most sun affected, the central pillar can be quite steep, wet, and thin (more often in WI5 or 5+ conditions), and the left climb is an otherwise abandoned mixed climb that once involved climbing a dead tree to bypass the clay band to reach better rock and ice.  Above the Triptych Pillars are three of the most challenging and difficult to protect pillars in the South Fork, the Gambler (WI6+, 40m), Long Neck Bottle (WI6+, 35m), and the fifth pitch of Triptych (WI5+, 30m).  In recent years Cody locals have established two difficult mixed climbs on either side of the Gambler.

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Broken Hearts Drainage – Broken Hearts (WI5-6, 9 pitches) is undoubtedly one of the best multipitch ice climbs in the South Fork and is consistently ranked as one of the top ten ice climbs in North America due to its enjoyable moderate climbing in the lower drainage leading to exceptionally high quality pillar climbing above.  Locals refer to the first four WI3 pitches of Broken Hearts as the Alpine Simulator, which can make for a really fun and relatively fast outing thanks to the short approach, easily navigable terrain between pitches, and one of the fastest walk offs of any major climb in the South Fork.  For those wanting more challenging climbing, the fifth pitch amphitheater known as the Atrium contains two super classics, Carotid Artery (WI5-6, mixed at M7, 2 pitches) on the left and My Only Valentine (WI5) on the right.  There are two more moderate pitches above the second pitch of Carotid known as the Stent (WI3, 2 pitches).  Above My Only Valentine is the rarer to form sixth pitch of Broken Hearts (WI5-6, 45m), followed by the even rarer to form seventh pitch of Broken Hearts (WI6) and a very difficult three pitch mixed climb Blood Eagle (M9 WI6).  Beyond that there are two more moderate pitches of waterfall ice higher up in the drainage.  While descending via the walkoff (the prominent ridge left of the drainage) below the Atrium, there is another quality mixed climb Left Ventricle (M5 WI4+, 2 pitches) that you’ll pass on the cliff band.

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Broken Ribs Drainage – Broken Ribs (WI2-3) is by no means a destination climb but it is a good easy multipitch ice climb in a valley that otherwise does not have many low-angle climbs.  It is essentially an easier version of Broken Hearts’ Alpine Simulator with an even shorter approach, three moderate pitches, with a straightforward walkoff on the ridge to the right (also shared with Broken Hearts).  Additionally, the lower pitches of Broken Ribs are very reliable due to their shady positioning. The massive sun-exposed dagger above the third pitch remains unclimbed but there is one rare-to-form difficult climb to its right, Anti-Wingman (WI5+, 35m). 

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Deer Creek Falls – Deer Creek Falls (WI2-3, 2 pitches) is a bit of a misnomer because the climb is not located in Deer Creek but rather to the right of the popular Deer Creek Trail.  The route is not necessarily a classic for the area but is worth mentioning because it is very close to the road and offers two pitches of fun moderate climbing with a short walkoff to the right.  As such it can also easily be toproped, a rarity in the South Fork.  Deer Creek Falls is a higher volume flow and very sun exposed so it requires cold and cloudy weather to be in good condition.  Wonder Wall (WI4, 35m) is a very rare-to-form climb located higher up in the drainage.

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Deer Creek

Deer Creek is a tributary of the South Fork of the Shoshone River fed by high elevation snowfields east of the Thorofare Plateau and that forms an impressively rugged slot canyon at its mouth.  The lower canyon of Deer Creek is home to some of the most accessible ice climbs in the valley while climbs in the upper drainage, which are accessed via the switch-backed Deer Creek Trail, have the longest approaches in the South Fork.  Note that the upper climbs, especially those south of Deer Creek, are avalanche prone and more ice climbers have lost their lives in this area than any other in the Cody region.  We recommend avoiding these north-facing climbs (Fredericks of Hollywood and Smooth Emerald Milkshake in particular) after the first significant snowfall of the season.  We list notable climbing areas in Deer Creek moving upstream from the road.

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Cathedral Dry Tool Crag – This roadside dry tool crag is a great place to learn to dry tool and for fitness laps if you want a quick pump.  The crag is located just north of the Deer Creek campground, making for a sub-60 second approach.  The two leftmost climbs (both M4) are short, moderate, and closely bolted for emerging leaders.  The next climb to the right, Wyoming Hueco (M7+), is the tallest climb at the crag and features some really nice torquing in a crack system to a roof crux followed by a pocketed headwall.  The next climb is unfinished and is off limits due to loose rock.  The rightmost climb is slightly overhanging M7+ on good pockets.  Two minutes north of the main Deer Creek crag is another bolted moderate M5. 

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Too Cold To Fire Area – The lower slot canyon of Deer Creek is home to a popular moderate, Too Cold Too Fire, in addition to two difficult mixed climbs.  Too Cold to Fire (WI4, 2 pitches) is easily approached via a half-mile walk up the creek once Deer Creek freezes over.  Note that if the creek isn’t frozen the climb is likely not in, as the climb needs prolonged cold to form and heal after bouts of midwinter warmth.  Too Cold to Fire consists of one very moderate approach pitch followed by an excellent pitch of vertical WI4, with a slightly easier curtain on the right and a three dimensional, translucent tube forming on the left.  The topout of either of these lines can be quite thin, especially in sunny or warm conditions.  Further up Deer Creek is a rare-to-form two pitch mixed climb, Fantasy Factory (M10 WI5, 2 pitches), the first pitch of which can be a fun moderate exercise in thin ice climbing when in condition.  Past a very impressive natural bridge is another challenging mixed climb, The Killing of a Sacred Deer (M9 WI6, 40m).

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A View to Thrill Area – Positioned high above the drainage on the western end of Ishawooa Mesa, this scenic venue is well worth the long hike thanks to its pair of challenging pillar climbs, A View to Thrill (WI5, 2 pitches) and Dressed to Kill (WI5, 2 pitches).  The approach involves hiking up the Deer Creek Trail switchbacks, then ascending a massive landslide area to reach the ice.  A fun first pitch of WI4 or an alternative pitch of M8 trad leads to a ledge with the two massive pillars.  The left pillar, A View to Thrill, seems to come into condition more often than Dressed to Kill to the right.  Cody locals recently developed a challenging mixed climb, the Real Big Dill (M10+, WI6), that ascends a series of icicles through the massive roof behind Dressed to Kill.

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Aqua Area – This recently developed mixed climbing area is located at the upper end of the lower slot canyon of Deer Creek.  The area is best approached via the Deer Creek Trail, then downclimbing and rappelling a low-angle chimney analog to the climbs, crossing Deer Creek, and climbing low angle ice up to the base of the two climbs.  The lowest climb in the slot is Aqua Tango (M7 WI5, 2 pitches), a steep curtain pull followed by a short pillar and offwidth.  The upper climb is Aqua Boogie (M5 WI4), a lovely moderate corner of thin ice followed by a slabby traverse.

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The Ghosts – The Ghosts (WI3-4) have some great moderate ice cragging with a relatively long and rugged approach.  The approach follows the Deer Creek Trail up the switchbacks, past the trailside Slogger (WI3), and then down a steep and loose gully to Deer Creek.  After hiking downstream a few minutes, a 100 meter wide wall of green-blue ice emerges.  The left side of the Ghosts is more moderate and the right is steeper.  All in all, it’s a fun day out if you don’t mind the adventurous hike to get there.

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Bitches Brew Area – The Bitches Brew Area has an excellent concentration of challenging ice and mixed climbing with incredible views of the upper Deer Creek Drainage.  The approach involves a three mile hike on the Deer Creek Trail and then a short but steep hike up the gully analog to the obvious Smooth Emeral Milkshake Drainage.  Bitches Brew (WI5+, 5 pitches) has two moderate pitches followed by one of the steepest pillar pitches in Cody and two more shorter pillars above that.  To the left of the incredible third pitch are two fine mixed climbs, graded at M5 and M8 respectively.  200m to the right of Bitches Brew is a similar albeit more moderate climb, Transient Alterations (WI4-5, 3 pitches) that has two variations to its third pitch.

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Smooth Emerald Milkshake Area – Smooth Emerald Milkshake (WI4, 5 pitches) is a high volume ice climb deep in the upper Deer Creek Drainage that Winter Dance describes as one of the best long moderates in the South Fork.  Smooth Emerald Milkshake is a fine early season romp, but later in the season we highly discourage seeking out this climb because of the snow accumulation basins above the ice pitches that slide regularly.  Unfortunately avalanches have taken the lives of multiple climbers on this route and injured others.  Even in early season conditions we recommend avoiding climbing after snow and wind events, carefully evaluating conditions, and bringing avalanche rescue equipment.  Fredericks of Hollywood (WI3+, 2 pitches) is a fine alternative with fewer pitches but less overhead hazard just left of Smooth Emerald Milkshake.

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Hawkeye Ranch

The Hawkeye Ranch subarea includes ice climbs between the Deer Creek Campground and the Cabin Creek parking area at the end of the South Fork Road.  There is a good assortment of cragging and longer multipitch options with relatively short approaches from the road.  We do recommend referencing a map when accessing these climbs as several approaches come close to private land boundaries and it’s imperative that climbers do not trespass or they will be prosecuted.  We also recommend avoiding the longer multipitch climbs in the Main Vein area after snow or wind events as they are subject to significant avalanche and rockfall hazard.

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Miami Ice Area – This is a highly recommended area for climbers looking for a shorter day out cragging on steep ice and mixed climbs.  Miami Ice (WI4-5, 35m) is a very reliable and enjoyable pitch of steep ice that varies in difficulty season to season.  To its right is a less reliable mixed climb in a deep chimney, Grunge Match (M4 WI4), and to its left is a chossy but fun pitch of trad M6.  For overhanging dry tool enthusiasts, the Rodeo Cave east of Miami Ice has an assortment of very steep routes up to M12 in difficulty.  Two fine mixed routes, the Heat (M7 WI5) and Too Much Beach (M6 WI5) are located on the upper andesite bands high above Miami Ice.  Additionally, Wake and Bake (WI2-3, 2 pitches) offers a fun ramble of slabby ice one drainage west of Miami Ice.

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Main Vein Area – This includes three ultra classic multipitch ice climbs on the southeast face of Peak 10,775′.  The first is the moderate Main Vein (WI3+, 5 pitches), which has pitch after pitch of fun lower angle ice leading to an incredible two-pitch finale on one of the fattest flows in the valley.  One Armed Bandit (WI5, 5 pitches), one drainage left of Main Vein, offers two challenging pitches of thin and steep ice in a narrow chimney system.  Note that both of these climbs have considerable overhead avalanche and rockfall hazard and should be avoided after large snowstorms, rapid warming, and wind events.  To the right of Main Vein is High Noon (WI5, 2 pitches), which is an extremely rare-to-form late season climb with only two known ascents.

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Cabin Creek

Cabin Creek is the tributary that flows into the South Fork of the Shoshone River near the end of the South Fork Road.  The subarea is home to two popular moderate routes, Cabin Fever and Wyoming Wave, as well as less frequented climbs throughout the drainage.  All of these climbs require walking up the creek bed, so it’s best to approach them after a period of sustained cold to avoid open water or falling through thin ice into the creek.

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Chasing the Sun Area – The closest area to the parking lot at the end of the South Fork Road, Chasing the Sun (WI4, 4 pitches) is located in a south-facing drainage that flows from the top of Peak 10,775′.  Chasing the Sun consists of several moderate steps leading to two steeper pitches.  Icarus (M5 WI5+) is located just to the right of the third pitch of Chasing the Sun and offers one very engaging pitch of traditional mixed climbing to a difficult dagger.  Note that all of these pitches in this drainage are heavily sun affected so they are best climbed in cold or cloudy conditions.  Climbers have continued up snowfields high in the drainage to top out Peak 10,775′, making for one of the most accessible summit climbs in the South Fork.  We recommend taking extreme caution when attempting this type of ascent, however, as climbers have triggered sizable avalanches up to D3 in the upper bowls of this drainage.

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Cabin Fever Area – The Cabin Fever Area is located one mile upstream from the parking lot at the end of the South Fork Road in a large slot canyon north of Cabin Creek.  Cabin Fever (WI4, 40m) is one of the most popular WI4s in the valley due to its relative flat approach, moderate climbing for the grade, and suitability for single pitch cragging.  It also provides access to Wyoming Wave (WI3+, 4 pitches), a very enjoyable multipitch moderate that climbs high on Peak 10,541′ (note that the upper pitches of Wyoming Wave are subject to significant avalanche hazard, however).   In colder conditions California Dreamin’ (WI3, 30m) offers an additional moderate pitch of climbing just to the right of Cabin Fever.

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Outdoorsman Area – Although this area requires a lengthy hike up Cabin Creek, the approach is incredibly scenic and involves picturesque approach pitches as the creek cascades over several small rock walls.  As with the Ghosts described above, the Outdoorsman (WI4, 50m) is a beautiful pitch of steep WI4 that would see much more traffic if the approach wasn’t as involved.

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