Cloud Peak, Wyoming – Custom Alpine Rock Climbing Trip

Description

Alpine Rock Climbing on Cloud Peak in the Bighorn Mountains

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We are privileged to offer Custom Alpine Rock Climbing Trips to Cloud Peak in the Bighorn Mountains of northern Wyoming.  The South Buttress of Cloud Peak and the nearby Merlon are home to several classic alpine rock climbing routes in a spectacular setting on the crest of the Bighorn Mountains, ranging from long moderates to challenging testpieces.  Not only do we facilitate an incredibly rewarding experience climbing on Cloud Peak, our ultimate aim is to help you become a safer and more sustainable alpine rock climber.  Our guides are talented, personable teachers who will help you develop new safety skills, useful rock climbing techniques, as well as Leave No Trace best practices for climbing.

Why climb Cloud Peak with us:

We are currently the only guide service permitted to guide alpine rock climbing on Cloud Peak.  Our guides are experienced professionals, talented climbers, and well-trained teachers.  They are also humble, personable, and overall great humans to be around in the mountains.  Our guides are adept at providing safe, supportive, and inclusive climbing experiences for people of all backgrounds and ability levels.  Additionally, our rock climbing guides live in the nearby Bighorn Basin and climb in the area throughout the year, which is a major advantage because they know the places they guide extremely well.

Classic alpine rock climbing routes on Cloud Peak:

Although there is little documentation of alpine climbing in the Bighorns compared to other ranges in Wyoming, there have been occasional attempts to document the climbing history of the Cloud Peak area.  The best resource and guidebook to date for Cloud PEak is Bonney and Bonney’s (1977) Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas, which is out of print but can be found at some used book stores.  The history of the early days of surveying and climbing in the Bighorns can be found in Jack Smith’s (2018) Cloud Capturing Summit and W.B. Wilcox’s (1934) An American Tyrol, Climbs in the Bighorns.  A good overview of more modern developments in the area can be found here, including a few useful topos.  Currently there are about twenty documented alpine rock routes on various aspects of Cloud Peak.  Two of our favorite routes to guide on the mountain are the Southeast Arete of Cloud Peak and the East Ridge of the Merlon:

Southeaste Arete of Cloud Peak (5.8, III, 8-10 pitches) – Pitch 1 has several options with the cleanest line beginning at the very base of the arete and ascending a corner system with large cracks slightly left of the crest, working its way past fun features with several ledge options for a belay.  Pitch 2 can be linked with Pitch 1 if using a long rope and follows the arete to easier fifth and fourth class terrain.  Pitch 3 starts at the base of a double finger crack system and climbs behind an impressively poised boulder to another good belay ledge.  Pitch 4 ascends a left-trending series of good faceholds with a few runouts before reaching another decent ledge.  Pitch 5 ascends one of several handcracks straight up the arete or an easier variation with less protection moves left on a large ledge and follows juggy holds to a large horizontal ledge (it is possible to exit the climb via this ledge with a few exposed fourth class moves on wet rock – a rope is highly recommended here).  Pitch 6 follows the arete on stunning rock to a beautiful topout overlooking the Merlon to the East.  Gain the summit plateau and descend via the obvious Class 2 South Ridge to the saddle between Cloud Peak and Bomber Mountain.  Gear: nuts, double rack of cams .3-2 and one 3.  No fixed anchors.

East Arete of the Merlon (5.9, III 10 pitches) –  “Start scrambling up area left of E ridge, then Cl 3 and 4 climbing several hundred yards to top of definite E ridge and start of E corner.  Three direct pitches on steep, rounded E corner lead to E spur summit.” (from Bonney and Bonney, p. 604).  Descent: rappel into notch separating Merlon and Cloud Pk, climb 1 pitch of steep 5.9 climbing to summit plateau, then descend via Cl 2 terrain on the S ridge.  Gear: nuts, double rack of cams .3-2 and one 3.  No fixed anchors.

Trip Itineraries:

• 3 Day Itinerary 

Our 3 day custom alpine rock climbing itinerary to Cloud Peak is a great option if you have limited time but want to focus on climbing one one classic alpine rock route!  Your guide will work with you to select an exciting objective (an area classic) that is appropriate for your skill and fitness levels and that feature fun, high quality climbing on good rock.  This trip involves a rugged approach both on trail and off in addition to two nights of backcountry camping.   We take one day to approach the climb, one full day of climbing, and one day to hike out.  Our primary objective with this trip is providing a safe and highly rewarding climbing experience on Cloud Peak that you will remember for many years to come.

• 4+ Day Itinerary 

Our 4 or more day custom alpine rock climbing itinerary to Cloud Peak is a full-value experience for those looking for an action-packed trip with multiple days of climbing in an incredible alpine rock climbing venue.  Your guide will coordinate with you to choos  exciting objectives that align with your climbing goals and are well-suited to your skill level.  This trip involves a rugged approach both on trail and off in addition to backcountry camping.   We take one day to approach the climb, as many days as you want to spend climbing, and one day to hike out.

Lessons:

Our Custom Alpine Rock Climbing Trips to Cloud Peak include personalized instruction on the following topics and techniques:

• Planning and preparation for alpine rock climbing
• Technical systems including protection, anchors, belaying, rappelling, and self-rescue
• Alpine rock climbing techniques
• Risk mitigation
• Decision-making
• Leave No Trace and “Beyond Leave No Trace” practices
• Lessons on the area’s geology, ecology, archaeology, and history

Trip availability:

Our Custom Alpine Rock Climbing Trips to Cloud Peak are available late June – early September.

Guide to climber ratio:

All of our custom alpine rock climbing trips have a 1:1 or 1:2 guide to climber ratio.

Trip logistics:

Transportation: Nearby Cody and Sheridan, WY have airports serviced by United Airlines.  You may also fly into neighboring Billings, MT, which often has cheaper flights.

Accommodations:  We recommend staying at either hotel or bed and breakfast in Ten Sleep or Buffalo, WY, or camping at a designated USFS campsite in the Bighorn Mountains.

Meeting location:  You will meet your guide in Buffalo or Ten Sleep, WY.

Daily schedule:  Depends on the itinerary.

Equipment:  Many climbers choose to bring all of their own gear, but we can provide all technical climbing equipment including CAMP helmets, harnesses, and Butora climbing shoes.

Bighorn Basin-based guides:

Our talented team of climbing guides includes some of the most prolific climbers in the region who are at the forefront of climbing development in northern Wyoming.  Most importantly our guides are skilled teachers who are patient, kind, and helpful to people from all walks of life as they learn new skills.  Their top priority is making you feel safe and supported as you take on a new challenge.  Feel free to request a particular guide for your course.

• Zach Lentsch – Zach Lentsch is an avid climber, guide, and owner of Wyoming Mountain Guides. A Bighorn Basin native, Zach has been exploring wild parts of northern Wyoming for as long as he can remember. In addition to running the business and designing Wyoming Mountain Guides’ suite of climbing programs operating across the state, Zach works extensively in the field and guides a wide range of trips ranging from introductory programs to advanced rock, ice, and alpine trips on challenging terrain. Zach is also a passionate developer of new climbing routes with over 100 first ascents across Wyoming, including the longest ice climb in the state (Ultralight Beam WI3+ 1000m) in the Wind River Mountains, the longest sandstone rock climb in the state (The Fall of Satan 5.10 C3 250m) in the Bighorn Mountains, and a high concentration of rock, ice, and mixed climbs in the Cody area up to 5.12, WI6, and M9 in difficulty.  Zach is an experienced teacher and works hard to integrate as much technical and environmental education into the climbing experience as possible while also prioritizing safety and having a great time together.

• Dane Steadman – Dane Steadman is a skilled multi-disciplinary guide with significant accomplishments including the first guided ascents of Pilot Peak and Stinkingwater Peak, guided ascents of Cloud Peak, Gannet Peak, Granite Peak (MT), guided ice climbs in the Cody area up to WI6 in difficulty, and guided rock climbs across the state of Wyoming up to 5.12 in difficulty.  Dane is also a very driven and talented climber whose main focus is exploratory alpine climbing both in Wyoming and in the greater ranges.  Notable climbs of his include the first ascent of Technicolor Super Dream on Mt. Huntington in Alaska, the first ascent of the North Face of Pik Alpinist in Kyrgyzstan, the second ascent of Titanic on Torre Egger in Patagonia, and several first ascents of hard ice and mixed climbs in the South Fork of the Shoshone River Valley up to WI6+ and M11 in difficulty.  What’s more, Dane is incredibly personable, patient, professional, and really fun to be around in the mountains.

• Andrew Lamb – Andrew Lamb is rock and ice climbing instructor, experienced alpinist, and competitive ice climber from Worland, WY.  Andrew has instructed rock and ice climbing programs in Bozeman since 2022 and has recently relocated to the Cody area.  Some of his proudest ascents include the Japanese Couloir on Alaska’s Mt. Barrill, Winter Dance and the Nutcracker in Hyalite Canyon, and significant solos throughout the Greater Yellowstone.  He is also a talented competitive dry tooler who competed with the US National Ice Climbing Team.  He considers his greatest strength as a guide is his “attitude of positivity and optimism for all the aspects of the mountains, whether that be the hauling, the patience and respect for clients, the teaching of technical skills or the grit needed to work through tough situations environmentally, physically or emotionally.”

Booking and payment:

You can view each of our guide’s availability on the calendar above.  To book your trip directly via our website, you need to first select a guide, choose from available dates, and select which trip option best suits your objectives in terms of route size and difficulty.  Then to finalize your booking we require a 25% deposit, which is non-refundable.  The remainder is to be paid two weeks before the trip and is non-refundable if you cancel within two weeks of the program.  If you do cancel last minute on your own accord and want to transfer your credit to another course or trip, we do charge an additional 30% rescheduling fee.  However in case of bad weather or a medical emergency we will waive the rescheduling fee.

Contact us:

Interested in booking a Custom Alpine Rock Climbing Trip to Cloud Peak?  Please send us an email including your name, email address, phone number, climbing experience, in addition to a description of what, where, and when you’d like to climb.