Ice climbing in Five Springs Falls: Ice cragging with an alpine feel
Five Springs Falls is a great ice climbing venue near Lovell Wyoming, offering two classic ice climbs close to the Five Springs campground. The BLM has designated Five Springs Falls an Area of Critical Environmental Concern for three rare plant species that grow on the canyon walls near the waterfalls, and so we suggest using the following resource protection strategies: hike on the established trail on the north side of the canyon, avoid mixed climbing on the surrounding walls, and avoid placing any fixed protection.
Season: December – March
Approach: Drive east on Highway 14A from Lovell to the Five Springs Falls BLM sign (just before the road closure). Take the paved road as far as you can toward th Five Springs campground. The road is steep and switchbacked, so chains may be necessary in snowy conditions. Walk through the campground and follow a short trail on the north side of the creek until you get to a short step of ice. Put on your crampons, climb the step, and hike up the creek to the base of the falls.
Classic ice climbing routes in Five Springs Falls:
- Lower Five Springs Falls (WI3+ 50m 2 pitches): A wide flow with multiple options. The most enjoyable line is to climb on the right side up an easy slab to a fun chimney with a few bulges, then finish on a snowy slab to a tree anchor above. There’s another short pitch of easy WI3 100′ above the first pitch.
- Upper Five Springs Falls (WI5 75m 1-2 pitches): A more challenging climb that starts off with a wide flow of short steps and narrows to a steep and sustained right-leaning pillar. An 80m rope will get you to the trees above, but we recommend breaking the climb into two pitches.
Programs available in Five Springs Falls:
Resources for planning your ice climbing trip to Five Springs Falls:
- Nearby accommodations: Five Springs Falls Campground, Cattleman Hotel
- Food and drink: Brandin’ Iron, Pizza on the Run
- Groceries and supplies: Red Apple
- Rest day attractions: Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Rainbow Canyon
Interested in ice climbing with us in Five Springs Falls? Send us an email with your name, email address, and brief description of what you’re looking for.