Steep Ice Climbing Course

Description

Learn to Climb Steep Ice!

Tapout (WI5), Ten Sleep

Overview:

This upper level course introduces participants to climbing difficult grades of waterfall ice.  The curriculum of this course focuses on route selection and preparation for hard climbs, evaluating hazards and conditions, protection strategies, movement on steep and featured ice, resting, aiding, and egress strategies including down climbing and bailing.  The course also includes as much practice as possible toprope climbing on steep ice pillars and curtains grades WI4+ or greater.  This course is challenging but highly rewarding as you gain experience climbing some of the most classic steep ice pitches in the region.  We highly recommend taking our introductory and intermediate ice climbing courses prior to enrolling in this advanced course, as the climbing is considerably more demanding and requires a solid foundation of safety systems and base of climbing fitness.

NOTE: All of our ice climbing courses are privately arranged for individual parties – we do not mix groups of strangers for our courses unless specifically requested to do so.  Our lower cost ice climbing clinics are larger group events scheduled for specific dates that are open to anyone who signs up for the clinic.

Dates:

Our Steep Ice Climbing Courses are available 15 November – 15 April upon request.  Please select from available dates directly on our website or you can use the email contact form below to arrange dates for your course.

Recommended course locations:

We are fortunate to have access to several incredible ice climbing venues for our Steep Ice Climbing Course.  When selecting a location for this course, it is important to consider not just the quality of ice climbing but also ease of access, good distribution of moderate grades, lack of crowds, minimal objective hazards, and stunning natural beauty.  Each of the following venues is an excellent ice climbing classroom – which location we end up choosing will depend on your specific objectives, climbing experience, party size, and preferences regarding the kind of ice climbing you want to experience.  You can learn more about the these and other areas we guide at our Ice Climbing Areas page.

Lessons:

Our Steep Ice Climbing Course includes personalized instruction on the following topics and techniques:

• Ice climbing safety systems
• Route planning
• Hazard evaluation
• Protection strategies
• Steep ice climbing movement and techniques
• Means of egress
• Practice toproping difficult grades of ice
• Minimal-impact ice climbing strategies to safeguard resources and heritage
• Leave No Trace and “Beyond Leave No Trace” practices
• Lessons the area’s geology, ecology, archaeology, and history

Sample 2 day itinerary

Saturday:

• 7am: Meet and drive to ice climbing area
• 8am: Start approach hike to the crag
• 8:30am: Gear up for ice climbing as guides set up climbs
• 9am: Review route selection and hazard evaluation
• 9:30am: Steep ice movement lesson
• 10am – 12pm: Toprope ice climbing
• 12-12:30pm: Lunch break
• 12:30pm: Protection strategies lesson
• 1-3:30pm: Toprope ice climbing
• 3:30pm: Hike out
• 4pm: Debrief

Sunday:

• 7am: Drive to ice climbing area
• 8am: Start approach hike to the crag
• 8:30am: Gear up for ice climbing as guides set up climbs
• 9am: Evaluating ice structure and conditions lesson
• 9:30am: Featured ice climbing movement lesson
• 10am – 12pm: Toprope ice climbing
• 12-12:30pm: Lunch break
• 12:30pm: Means of egress lesson
• 1-3:30pm: Toprope ice climbing
• 3:30pm: Hike out
• 4pm: Debrief

Course guides:

Our talented team of ice climbing guides includes some of the most prolific ice climbers in the region who are at the forefront of ice climbing development in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.  Most importantly our guides are skilled teachers who are patient, kind, and helpful to people from all walks of life as they learn new skills.  Their top priority is making you feel safe and supported as you take on a new challenge.  Feel free to request a particular guide for your course.

Dane Steadman

Dane Steadman is a skilled multi-disciplinary guide with significant accomplishments including the first guided ascents of Pilot Peak and Stinkingwater Peak, guided ascents of Cloud Peak, Gannet Peak, Granite Peak (MT), guided ice climbs in the Cody area up to WI6 in difficulty, and aguided rock climbs across the state of Wyoming up to 5.12 in difficulty.  Dane is also a very driven and talented climber whose main focus is exploratory alpine climbing both in Wyoming and in the greater ranges.  Notable climbs of his include the first ascent of Technicolor Super Dream on Mt. Huntington in Alaska, the first ascent of the North Face of Pik Alpinist in Kyrgyzstan, the second ascent of Titanic on Torre Egger in Patagonia, and several first ascents of hard ice and mixed climbs in the South Fork of the Shoshone River Valley up to WI6+ and M10 in difficulty.  What’s more, Dane is incredibly personable, patient, professional, and really fun to be around in the mountains. 

Zach Lentsch

Zach Lentsch is an avid climber, guide, and owner of Wyoming Mountain Guides. A Bighorn Basin native, Zach has been exploring wild parts of northern Wyoming for as long as he can remember. In addition to running the business and designing Wyoming Mountain Guides’ suite of climbing programs operating across the state, Zach works extensively in the field and guides a wide range of trips ranging from introductory programs to advanced rock, ice, and alpine trips on challenging terrain. Zach is also a passionate developer of new climbing routes with over 100 first ascents across Wyoming, including the longest ice climb in the state (Ultralight Beam WI3+ 1000m) in the Wind River Mountains, the longest sandstone rock climb in the state (The Fall of Satan 5.10 C3 250m) in the Bighorn Mountains, and a high concentration of rock, ice, and mixed climbs in the Cody area up to 5.12, WI6, and M9 in difficulty.  Zach is an experienced teacher and works hard to integrate as much technical and environmental education into the climbing experience as possible while also prioritizing safety and having a great time together.

Booking and payment:

You can view each of our guide’s availability on the calendar above.  To book your course directly via our website, you need to first select a guide and choose from available dates.  To finalize your booking we require you to pay a 25% deposit, which is non-refundable.  The remainder is to be paid two weeks before the course and is non-refundable if you cancel within two weeks of the program.  If you do cancel last minute on your own accord and want to transfer your credit to another course or trip, we do charge an additional 30% rescheduling fee.  However in case of bad weather or a medical emergency we will waive the rescheduling fee.

Contact Us:

Have questions about our Steep Ice Course?  Please contact us via the form below: