Description
Climb Pilot Peak, the Matterhorn of Wyoming!
We offer 2-3 day custom guided alpine climbing trips on Pilot Peak (11,699′), one of the most aesthetic but demanding summits of any mountain in Wyoming. Located northwest of Cody near Cooke City, Pilot Peak is a glacially sculpted pinnacle on the northern edge of the Absaroka Volcanic Province that formed 43-53 million years ago. The mountain is composed of both Wapiti Breccia and Trout Peak Trachyandesite formations of volcanic conglomerates, which makes for challenging climbing on a wide variety of rock qualities. Pilot Peak was first climbed in 1932 by Robert McKenzie and Hollis Mees (who, incredibly, filmed their ascent) via the Southwest Face Route (5.7), which is one of two routes that we prefer to guide on the peak. We also recommend climbing Pilot Peak via the Buckingham/Fonda Direct Route (5.9), which is technically more challenging but has less exposed traversing than the SW Face.
Pilot Peak is one of the more advanced alpine climbing objectives that we guide as it requires a steep off-trail approach, camping overnight in bear country, moving on snow and loose rock, and climbing on committing, consequential terrain. That said, if you already have experience alpine climbing on technical objectives (think Mt. Shuksan, Forbidden Peak, Grand Teton, etc.) and want a proper challenge in a more remote area, Pilot Peak is one of the most unique and rewarding objectives you’ll find in any mountain range in the US. The iconic nature of the mountain coupled with the challenging nature of the climbing makes for a complete package that you won’t soon forget. Depending on your hiking and climbing speed, we recommend planning for either a 2 or 3 day ascent, depending on whether you want to climb and descend to the car in the same day. And if you’re new to climbing on volcanic rock, we also recommend spending a day climbing on the North Fork towers near Cody to prepare for the nature of the climbing you’ll find on Pilot Peak.
Why climb Pilot Peak with us:
Our Cody-based climbing guides are experienced professionals, talented climbers, and well-trained teachers. They are also humble, personable, and overall great humans to be around in the mountains. Our guides are adept at providing safe, supportive, and inclusive climbing experiences for people of all backgrounds and ability levels.
We are also the only local, Cody-based guiding service that operates in the area. All of climbing guides live and climb in Cody throughout year, which is a major advantage because they have the most experience guiding in the area and know the climbs, conditions, and hazards of the places they guide better than anyone. Being based in Cody also helps us reduce travel costs for our guides, which makes our service more affordable than our competitors and reduces our carbon footprint.
Trip Itineraries:
- 2 Day Itinerary
Our 2 day Pilot Peak climbing itinerary is a great option if you are an experienced alpine climber in good physical shape with a short time window for your climb. Day 1 consists of meeting up with your guide in Cooke City, doing a gear check, and then hiking to base camp. Day 2 begins with an alpine start and steep scree and snow climbing to get to the more challenging rock pitches. After climbing you’ll descend to base camp and then walk out to the car.
- 3 Day Itinerary
Our 3 day Pilot Peak climbing itinerary is our most popular option as it allows for a less demanding Day 2 and the possibility of waiting out bad weather. Day 1 consists of meeting up with your guide in Cooke City, doing a gear check, and then hiking to base camp. Day 2 begins with an alpine start and steep scree and snow climbing to get to the more challenging rock pitches. After climbing you’ll descend to base camp. Day 3 consists of breaking down camp and hiking out but also can serve as an alternative summit day in case the weather is bad on Day 2.
Trip availability:
Our custom alpine climbing trips on Pilot Peak are available from mid June to mid September.
Trip logistics:
Transportation: Cody has an airport serviced by United Airlines. You can also fly into neighboring Billings, Montana (where flights are often cheaper) and rent a car to drive to Cody or Cooke City.
Accommodations: We recommend staying at a hotel or bed and breakfast in Cody, Cooke City, or Silver Gate.
Meeting location: You will meet your guide in either Cody or Cooke City to start your trip.
Equipment: Many climbers choose to bring all of their own gear, but we can provide all technical climbing equipment including CAMP ice axes and crampons, helmets, harnesses, and Butora climbing shoes. We do highly recommend bringing your own mountaineering boots if you own them because the approaches in Cody require extensive hiking off-trail and it’s preferable to hike in boots that are broken in to your feet.
Cody-based guides:
Our talented team of climbing guides includes some of the most prolific climbers in the region who are at the forefront of climbing development in Wyoming. Most importantly our guides are skilled teachers who are patient, kind, and helpful to people from all walks of life as they learn new skills. Their top priority is making you feel safe and supported as you take on a new challenge. Feel free to request a particular guide for your course.
- Zach Lentsch – Zach Lentsch is an avid climber, guide, and owner of Wyoming Mountain Guides. A Bighorn Basin native, Zach has been exploring wild parts of northern Wyoming for as long as he can remember. In addition to running the business and designing Wyoming Mountain Guides’ suite of climbing programs operating across the state, Zach works extensively in the field and guides a wide range of trips ranging from introductory programs to advanced rock, ice, and alpine trips on challenging terrain. Zach is also a passionate developer of new climbing routes with over 100 first ascents across Wyoming, including the longest ice climb in the state (Ultralight Beam WI3+ 1000m) in the Wind River Mountains, the longest sandstone rock climb in the state (The Fall of Satan 5.10 C3 250m) in the Bighorn Mountains, and a high concentration of rock, ice, and mixed climbs in the Cody area up to 5.12, WI6, and M9 in difficulty. Zach is an experienced teacher and works hard to integrate as much technical and environmental education into the climbing experience as possible while also prioritizing safety and having a great time together.
- Dane Steadman – Dane Steadman is a skilled multi-disciplinary guide with significant accomplishments including the first guided ascents of Pilot Peak and Stinkingwater Peak, guided ascents of Cloud Peak, Gannet Peak, Granite Peak (MT), guided ice climbs in the Cody area up to WI6 in difficulty, and guided rock climbs across the state of Wyoming up to 5.12 in difficulty. Dane is also a very driven and talented climber whose main focus is exploratory alpine climbing both in Wyoming and in the greater ranges. Notable climbs of his include the first ascent of Technicolor Super Dream on Mt. Huntington in Alaska, the first ascent of the North Face of Pik Alpinist in Kyrgyzstan, the second ascent of Titanic on Torre Egger in Patagonia, and several first ascents of hard ice and mixed climbs in the South Fork of the Shoshone River Valley up to WI6+ and M11 in difficulty. What’s more, Dane is incredibly personable, patient, professional, and really fun to be around in the mountains.
- Andrew Lamb – Andrew Lamb is rock and ice climbing instructor, experienced alpinist, and competitive ice climber from Worland, WY. Andrew has instructed rock and ice climbing programs in Bozeman since 2022 and has recently relocated to the Cody area. Some of his proudest ascents include the Japanese Couloir on Alaska’s Mt. Barrill, Winter Dance and the Nutcracker in Hyalite Canyon, and significant solos throughout the Greater Yellowstone. He is also a talented competitive dry tooler who competed with the US National Ice Climbing Team. He considers his greatest strength as a guide is his “attitude of positivity and optimism for all the aspects of the mountains, whether that be the hauling, the patience and respect for clients, the teaching of technical skills or the grit needed to work through tough situations environmentally, physically or emotionally.”
Booking and payment:
You can view each of our guide’s availability on the calendar above. To book your trip directly via our website, you need to first select a guide, choose from available dates, and select which trip option best suits your objectives in terms of route size and difficulty. Then to finalize your booking we require a 25% deposit, which is non-refundable. The remainder is to be paid two weeks before the trip and is non-refundable if you cancel within two weeks of the program. If you do cancel last minute on your own accord and want to transfer your credit to another course or trip, we do charge an additional 30% rescheduling fee. However in case of bad weather or a medical emergency we will waive the rescheduling fee.
Contact us:
Interested in a custom alpine climbing trip on Pilot Peak with us? You can either book directly online or send us an email including your name, email address, phone number, climbing experience, in addition to a description of what, where, and when you’d like to climb.
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