Learn to Lead Ice Climbing Clinic

Description

Overview:

Want to learn more about the sharp end of lead ice climbing?  Our Cody-based Learn to Lead Ice Climbing Clinic will help you start your journey to becoming a competent ice climbing leader. Our professional ice climbing guides will teach you best practices for lead ice climbing, work with you to evaluate your skills, and provide useful feedback to help you progress.  In particular, we will focus on mitigating objective hazards, evaluating terrain, picking a line, climbing efficiency, placing protection, mock leading, anchor building, downclimbing, and how to bail.  You will also learn to evaluate the risks associated with climbing steep ice formations and practice placing protection in complex terrain.

Our two-day Learn to Lead Ice Climbing Clinic is a discounted group clinic with up to 12 participants in the clinic.  The focus of this clinic is primarily educational and the clinic takes place in a single pitch cragging session to maximize both teaching and climbing time.  If you’re looking for private instruction on larger terrain, please see our Intermediate Ice Climbing Course, Steep Ice Climbing Course, or Cody Custom Ice Climbing Trip.

Curriculum:

Our Learn to Lead Ice Climbing Clinic include lessons on the following topics:

• Risk evaluation and mitigation
• Terrain evaluation
• Route selection
• Technique and movement
• Placing ice screws
• Building ice anchors
• Downclimbing
• Descent and bailing

These lessons are accompanied by lots of mock leading and toprope climbing on vertical ice!

Dates and Locations:

• January 24-25, 2026: Five Springs Falls and the South Fork of the Shoshone River

The first day of our Learn to Lead Ice Climbing Clinic will take place at Five Springs near Lovell, which  is one of the most accessible and impressive ice crags in the region with two towering cascades of ice less than quarter mile from the trailhead.   Clinic participants will climb on both Five Springs Falls (WI3, 40m) and Juggy’s Day Out (WI5, 70m).  Read more about ice climbing at Five Springs here.

The second day of the clinic will take place in the South Fork of the Shoshone River Valley, the preeminent ice climbing destination in the region and home to hundreds of classic pitches of ice.  Clinic participants will likely climb at Miami Ice (WI4+, 35m) or Horsetail Falls (WI4-5, 70m) depending on conditions.  Read more about ice climbing in the South Fork here.

Rates and terms of payment:

$350 per person.   We require a 50% deposit at signup and the remaining balance two weeks prior to the program.  The deposit is non-refundable and the remaining balance is non-refundable in case of cancellation within two weeks of the program.

Equipment:

We provide the following technical ice climbing equipment at no extra charge:

• Ice tools – CAMP X-Dream
• Crampons – CAMP Blade Runner and Alpinist Pro
• Helmets
• Harnesses
• Mountaineering boots
• Belay devices
• All ropes, ice screws, and anchor material
• Climbing packs

We do not provide the following personal equipment:

• Thin wool socks
• Long underwear/base layers
• Soft or hardshell pants (tight fitting is best)
• Fleece midlayer
• Waterproof shell
• Belay puffy
• Gloves (thin for climbing, thick for belaying)
• Balaclava
• Lunch and snacks
• 2l of fluid (hot drinks are best)
• Sunglasses
• WAG bag

Clinic guides:

Our talented team of ice climbing guides includes some of the most prolific ice climbers in the region who are at the forefront of ice climbing development in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.  Most importantly our guides are skilled teachers who are patient, kind, and helpful to people from all walks of life as they learn new skills.  Their top priority is making you feel safe and supported as you take on a new challenge.  Feel free to request a particular guide for your course.

• Dane Steadman – Dane Steadman is a skilled multi-disciplinary guide with significant accomplishments including the first guided ascents of Pilot Peak and Stinkingwater Peak, guided ascents of Cloud Peak, Gannet Peak, Granite Peak (MT), guided ice climbs in the Cody area up to WI6 in difficulty, and aguided rock climbs across the state of Wyoming up to 5.12 in difficulty.  Dane is also a very driven and talented climber whose main focus is exploratory alpine climbing both in Wyoming and in the greater ranges.  Notable climbs of his include the first ascent of Technicolor Super Dream on Mt. Huntington in Alaska, the first ascent of the North Face of Pik Alpinist in Kyrgyzstan, the second ascent of Titanic on Torre Egger in Patagonia, and several first ascents of hard ice and mixed climbs in the South Fork of the Shoshone River Valley up to WI6+ and M10 in difficulty.  What’s more, Dane is incredibly personable, patient, professional, and really fun to be around in the mountains. 

• Zach Lentsch – Zach Lentsch is an avid climber, guide, and owner of Wyoming Mountain Guides. A Bighorn Basin native, Zach has been exploring wild parts of northern Wyoming for as long as he can remember. In addition to running the business and designing Wyoming Mountain Guides’ suite of climbing programs operating across the state, Zach works extensively in the field and guides a wide range of trips ranging from introductory programs to advanced rock, ice, and alpine trips on challenging terrain. Zach is also a passionate developer of new climbing routes with over 100 first ascents across Wyoming, including the longest ice climb in the state (Ultralight Beam WI3+ 1000m) in the Wind River Mountains, the longest sandstone rock climb in the state (The Fall of Satan 5.10 C3 250m) in the Bighorn Mountains, and a high concentration of rock, ice, and mixed climbs in the Cody area up to 5.12, WI6, and M9 in difficulty.  Zach is an experienced teacher and works hard to integrate as much technical and environmental education into the climbing experience as possible while also prioritizing safety and having a great time together.

• Andrew Lamb – Andrew Lamb is rock and ice climbing instructor, experienced alpinist, and competitive ice climber from Worland, WY.  Andrew has instructed rock and ice climbing programs in Bozeman since 2022 and has recently relocated to the Cody area.  Some of his proudest ascents include the Japanese Couloir on Alaska’s Mt. Barrill, Winter Dance and the Nutcracker in Hyalite Canyon, and significant solos throughout the Greater Yellowstone.  He is also a talented competitive dry tooler who competed with the US National Ice Climbing Team.  He considers his greatest strength as a guide is his “attitude of positivity and optimism for all the aspects of the mountains, whether that be the hauling, the patience and respect for clients, the teaching of technical skills or the grit needed to work through tough situations environmentally, physically or emotionally.”

Contact us:

Have questions about our Learn to Lead Ice Climbing Clinic?  Send us an email and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible!